I've traveled pretty extensively in South America and by far one of the most shocking experiences happened in the three hour span of leaving Argentina and crossing into Bolivia. Just for some context, when traveling in Argentina in one's youth the most common mode of transportation is Bus. These buses however are not like their hillbilly cousins in the United States, the greyhound, instead they are plush with some full reclining seats (cama, media cama), stewardesses and booze. It is more like flying on an airplane without the whole flying and getting to your destination quicker mess. Moreover these buses don't have the normal stops on every corner, they only stop at stations more like trains in Europe and you have a chance to stretch your legs and maybe buy some candies or a sandwich. Comfort, convenience and price these buses in Argentina seemed to have it all.
The one thing these buses did not have however, was the ability to cross the Argentine Bolivian border. As if the bus would somehow explode or turn into a pumpkin these titans of comfort dared not even creep towards the border. While traveling from Salta, Argentina to La Paz Bolivia I came to a border town in which I thought I would catch another plush bus for the rest of the trip. In Salta the travel company let me know that there was no direct bus to La Paz, but that it would be easy to find another bus once I was in Bolivia. Knowing nothing about Bolivia this seemed pretty much on par with the rest of my trip having crossed the Argentine border a few other times in Uruguay, Brazil and Paraguay. So I got to the station in La Quiaca, Argentina strapped on my backpack and made my way to the border to cross. In hindsight, my first indication that something was amiss was when the bus would not take us over the border and when the taxi would only take me within about 100 yards of the actual line that I would later learn was important to keep the Bolivians out.
I made my way to the border and noticed that the closer I got the more desolate the Argentine side became and the more robust and full of people the Bolivian side was. It was like there was an invisible line just over the Argentine side that the Bolivians wanted to cross and the Argentines dared not to approach. It was confusing, I thought I just had to show my passport then jump over the border and hope on another plush bus for the next 10 hours to La Paz. Oh how wrong I would soon find out I was.
The border crossing was not an issue, in and out with a decorative Bolivian stamp in my passport and I was on my way to the crowded bus station. "Manzana Manzana Manzana!" a little old lady with very few teeth selling apples in front of the station shouted. Her voice was louder than anything else around, even the backfiring cars and stray dogs that seemed to be walking around everywhere. She was squaty, and dressed in full Incan regalia, multi-colored blanket on top of multi-colored blanket and topped off with a fedora. The most unappealing thing about her however had nothing to do with her leather exterior, rather it was her smell. Even at 10 paces, I could smell her and it was not a smell I can even begin to describe. Her stink made me want to spray cologne up my nose then roll around in a bed of roses. Don't mistake this, the smell was horrible and I later came to realize that it was pervasive amongst all the impoverished Bolivians, the smell of ancient, mixed with sweat and just a dash of never washed clothing.
I realized quickly I needed to get out of here and into some civilization so I bought a ticket for what I thought was the next bus (turned out to be two hours late) and waited. Expectations high, as the time for my trip neared I saw a clunker of a bus that looked just a little better than a yellow school bus but not quite as clean slowly drive up. "Dear god no" I though to myself as I came to the realization that this would be the way I would be getting to La Paz...in a shitbox. Having my "Premiere Ticket" which meant little else than I got to go on first and didn't have to sit in the isle, not the isle seat...the actual isle. Little did I know that in coming to Bolivia I was crossing from a progressive and rich country, to one of the poorest in the world. This bus as I sat would begin to fill, not just the seats, but every space available was either stuffed with a person, a dog or some kind of good in a large multicolored bag. The smell was incredible, I had to take some of the flavored chap stick I bought a few weeks earlier and smear it under my nose to keep from throwing up. But, I was sitting with close to 100 of my new friends and we were about to be on our way.
Of course this was the error in my way, I thought once we got going things would be better, oh how wrong could I possibly be. After about an hour the bus finally hit some town I didn't know the name of. It was night and pitch black accept for some shops on the mostly paved road and the bus driver announced that if we wanted we could get off, us the bathroom or buy something. Already squeezed into my seat I decided I better not as I watched a few people exit the bus before it stopped moving. This was where the confusing part happened, the bus kept moving leaving the passengers behind and picking up a few new ones. Their things were still on the bus, but they were going to stay where ever in the hell we were. It was at this point I said to myself "I will not for any reason be leaving this bus until I am where I want to be", and very soon after I came to regret that decision.
The road, or rather the dirt, became rocky and bumpy after about two hours of driving and our pace slowed to a crawl, I could literally have gotten out and walked faster than this damn bus was moving and the smell was intensified because the insane amount of dust made it impossible to open the windows. The vibrating and bumps were so severe that every time I leaned my seat the two inches it went back, the bus would shake so hard that it would vibrate me forward. It was as if someone somewhere was playing a sick and cruel joke on me, and I blamed god.
Sleep was not an option, reading was not an option instead I sat awake in the pitch black slowly and unsurely making my way to the heart of Bolivia wishing with every bit of my being that I never got off that bus in Argentina.